Meanwhile, Rohit Ghai, executive chef at Michelin-starred Jamavar in Mayfair, has opened Bombay Bustle off Regent Street. Ghai says: ‘Bombay Bustle captures the essence of Mumbai – our love of home comforts and our rapid pace of life, both exisiting side by side.’
The restaurant is inspired by dabbawalas, the people who deliver ‘dabbas’ – tiered tins of home-cooked lunches – to workers, particularly in Mumbai. The tins are identified by colourful symbols and are delivered by trains, bikes and handcarts. Co-founder Samyukta Nair adds: ‘In Mumbai – a complex, bustling metropolis – the dabbawalas are a constant, bridging the distance between work and home with near-clockwork precision, and we bring the same ethos to London.’ Just like dabbawalas, Ghai’s menu gives diners the chance to try his family recipes, which have been passed down by his mother. The ground-floor dining room resembles an old first-class railway coach, with a pewter bar and leather banquettes. The lower ground floor has cut-glass screens, a timber-panelled ceiling, dabbas and booths similar to waiting rooms in Indian railway stations.
Gul & Sepoy
Following the success of Gunpowder and Madame D, Harneet and Devina Baweja are continuing to educate Londoners about regional Indian cuisine with their latest venture. The broad menu is divided into ‘Sepoy’, featuring dishes inspired by rustic favourites such as wild rabbit terrine, and ‘Gul’, which provides a taste of how the other half lived, showcasing the lavish food served to royalty in the Raj palaces of North-Western India.
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