TREND: COLOUR POPPING
All the colour rules were broken at Chanel this season: a bright teal-blue eye was paired with a pinky red lip and peach blush.To say colour was a-popping would be an understatement. What made it work were the varying textures – at shadow, glossy lips and dewy cheeks gave the look a harmonious bird of paradise feel.
Elsewhere, ashes of mint green and bright blue eyeliner featured at Missoni, while House of Holland mixed up hues of electric blue, pink and orange across the eyes. On lips, it was any colour as long as it was red. At Dolce & Gabbana, this ran from cherry to berry, while it was all about intense matte crimson at Badgley Mischka, Blumarine and MaxMara.
“It’s great to focus on one feature when it comes to a pop of colour,” says make-up artist Naoko Scintu.“A strong colour on the lips with bare skin, or a colourful eyeshadow and a clean face. Use a primer first (like SUQQU’s Blooming Glow Primer) and then the pigment on top; this will set the colour anywhere on the face to make it more impactful.”
Tom Ford’s Metallic Private Shadow in Photographic is the perfect, long-lasting (and so easy to use) shimmery teal, which can be layered up for a colour pop as timid or as brave as you like. And for the ultra-brave? Why, there’s YSL’s new Acid Brights Couture Palette Collector eyeshadow quintet, of course – vivid blues in among a solar gold and blush pink to dial up and down as desired.
For lip lovers, going bold has been made easy this season thanks to an innovative new lipstick from Chanel in the form of its Poudre À Lèvres.This is a compact that features a balm alongside a perfect-red powder lipstick designed for buildable, highly pigmented colour that can be as sheer or as dense as you wish. And if this all still seems a little too much, try dabbling with Chanel’s new Le Vernis nail polish in sunshine yellow Giallo Napoli – a very gentle nod to the season’s most vibrant trend.
As the wellness and clean-living movements gather momentum, it’s unsurprising that well-scrubbed, flawless-looking skin took centre stage this season; the kind of complexion that screams of diligent water consumption and deepest sleep. This was seen on catwalks from Saint Laurent to Michael Kors by way of Altuzarra, Bottega Veneta, Balmain and Lacoste.
“For the best natural, dewy make-up look – i.e. skin that appears healthy and clean – prep the skin well,” says Scintu. “Hydration is key. I love Omorovicza skincare for this type of finish.Try using the new Midnight Radiance Mask, which will hydrate the skin. Omoressence is a hydrating water that you can splash on before moisturising. It absorbs quickly and hydrates perfectly. Finish this stage with the Illuminating Moisturiser as this adds a healthy glow to the skin.”
Once prepped and primed, opt for hybrid cosmetics that contain skincare benefits while they work hard – skin not only looks healthy but is being repaired and replenished at the same time. Perricone MD’s No Makeup line is great for this: the No Foundation Foundation Serum, which is newly available in five shades, and the Instant Blur combine to lavish the skin with texture-refining antioxidants, brightening vitamin C ester and plumping neuropeptides while offering sheer, dewy coverage that blurs out the appearance of imperfections. A sweep of Decorté’s new Dip In Glow highlighter and a slick of Chantecaille’s new natural-looking Lip Sleek in Lychee and you’re good to glow.
TREND: EXPERIMENTAL EYELINER
From the graphic lines at BOSS, Rochas and Eudon Choi to the upside-down cat’s eyes at Jill Stuart and John Galliano, eyeliner was flexing its experimental polymer-muscles this season. Then there were the exaggerated upward flicks at Miu Miu as well as Tom Ford’s glittery approach, with a rounded wing shape that is much more forgiving than its sharper- edged cousin. What held them all together was the presence of very little else in the way of make-up – dewy skin with strategic concealer, lips with their natural pink enhanced and no or very little mascara kept the look fresh, contemporary and super-summery.
“To recreate any of the more graphic eyeliner looks from the SS18 shows, it’s worth investing in MAC’s Pro Longwear Fluidline in BlackTrack,” says Scintu.“With this little pot of magic and a liner brush, you can create any shape or line you desire – just make sure the skin is slightly powdered first as this will help maintain its staying power.” Guerlain’s new Roll’Ink Liner also has a wheel-shaped applicator that is designed to make achieving graphic lines simple.
Meanwhile, the tentative can experiment with Eyeko’s easy-to-navigate Skinny Liquid Eyeliner to recreate the simple, clean straight lines above the eye as seen at Erdem, or at J.W. Anderson under the lower lash line, finished with just a lick of Eyeko Brow Gel to ensure brows are tamed and look natural, so as not to steal the limelight.