Ollie Dabbous quickly earned a reputation as a game changer when his eponymous Dabbous opened in Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street in 2012. It was a rip-roaring success, with young professionals in the area flocking to the restaurant – all raw copper pipes and exposed brickwork. Just eight months later, Dabbous earned a Michelin star for his menu of edgy dishes such as beef tartare infused with cigar oil, and coddled free-range hen’s egg with woodland mushroom. Not only did he win accolades, but you couldn’t get a table for months. The young British chef was hot property. Six years since he started out in the capital, the latest chapter in Dabbous’ career has just begun with the opening of Hide in Mayfair. “I think I’m a better chef now than when I opened Dabbous,” he said in a recent interview. But does he now have too much to live up to? Although size isn’t everything, Hide has an advantage over his previous bijoux venues: space. With picture windows revealing the expanse of Green Park outside, the restaurant spreads over three levels: a cosy cocktail bar named Below, then upstairs to Ground (a casual all-day space on the ground floor), progressing to a light-filled top floor, Above, which is exclusively for the tasting menu.

It has an understated elegance with wooden floorboards and neutral tones throughout. The venue has additional bragging rights for its immense selection of 6,000 bottles from the cellars of Hedonism Wines, owned by a Russian exile who is also a major backer. Hide lives up to the hype, thankfully. Its dishes are mainly British-inspired and reflect the subtle floral tones of Henrietta, the restaurant Dabbous opened within the hotel of the same name last year. The tasting menu may include imaginative dishes such as steamed turbot with crushed nasturtium broth, and roast suckling pig with warm garlic buttermilk. Its vegetarian alternatives are no less intriguing, with charred runner beans and pine-nut praline. Finish with a dessert such as garden ripple ice cream, or local cheeses with chutney made at your table, and toast Dabbous’s latest venture with a digestif.

Hide, 85 Piccadilly, W1J 7NB | 020 3146 8666.

Jun 4th 2018